Help and support

In almost every case it comes down to one of these three:

1. 2.4 GHz is required. The clock only uses 2.4 GHz and cannot see a 5 GHz-only network. Many routers broadcast both under the same name - that works fine.
2. Encryption. The clock connects to WPA2-secured networks. A network without any password, and guest portals with a login page, will not work. If your router runs in WPA3-only mode, switch it to mixed WPA2/WPA3.
3. Channel 12 or 13. The most common pitfall - see the next question.

Channels 12 and 13 are permitted in Europe, but many Wi-Fi devices are not allowed to use them - including the radio chip inside the PXL Clock. If your router sits on one of those channels, your network simply does not show up for the clock.

What makes this tricky: routers often pick the channel automatically and switch it while running. Everything can work for months and then the clock disappears without you changing anything.

On a FRITZ!Box: open fritz.box in your browser, go to Wi-Fi → Radio Channel and clear the checkbox Wi-Fi auto channel including channel 12/13 (2.4 GHz band). Automatic selection stays on and will only pick channels 1 to 11 from then on.

On other routers the setting is usually under Wi-Fi, Radio channel or Wireless. A fixed channel of 1, 6 or 11 always works.

First check whether the display still shows something. If it runs normally, only the connection to our server dropped - the clock itself is fine.

What helps:

• Unplug it briefly and plug it back in after ten seconds.
• Check that your Wi-Fi and internet connection are working.
• If your router is new or the Wi-Fi password changed, the clock needs to be reconnected - see the next question.

If it stays offline for more than a few minutes while your Wi-Fi is fine, get in touch.

The clock still holds the old credentials and cannot get online. Simply reconnect it: in the app's device settings under WiFi.

One tip that saves a lot of work: if you give the new router the same network name and password as before, the clock reconnects on its own.

Fully automatically over Wi-Fi. The clock checks for new versions regularly and installs them by itself. Nothing to do, nothing to plug in.

That is expected. Some updates touch deeper parts of the system and only take effect after a restart. Reckon with a few minutes for the update plus the restart on top, then the clock carries on as usual.

Please do not unplug it during an update. If the power does drop, nothing breaks - the clock starts with its previous version and tries again later.

For quick access without your phone:

• Upper, short press: cycles the pixogram.
• Lower, short press: cycles through brightness levels.
• Upper, long press: starts pairing mode.
• Lower, long press: set the time by hand.

More on this in the setup guide.

In the app's device settings under Day & Night there is a schedule: you decide when the clock dims or switches off entirely, and when it wakes up in the morning. Brightness can also be adjusted manually at any time, including via the lower button on the back.

The clock pulls the time from the internet automatically once it is connected. If it stays wrong, the connection is usually the culprit - the Wi-Fi section above will help.

The app controls your clock through our server, not directly over your home network. Both just need internet - your phone can happily be on mobile data and does not have to share a Wi-Fi with the clock.

So if the clock does not show up, check first whether it is online itself (see above) and whether you are signed into the right account in the app.

The one exception is first-time setup: there the app talks to the clock over Bluetooth to hand over the Wi-Fi credentials. For that you need to be near it and allow Bluetooth access when your phone asks.

Yes. You can pair as many PXL Clocks with your account as you like and switch between them in the app.

Unpair it from your account in the app first, then the new owner can set it up from scratch.

Note: the Wi-Fi credentials stay stored on the device, so it can reconnect on its own after a power cut. If you would rather not hand over your network password, point the clock at a different Wi-Fi before you pass it on - your phone's hotspot, for instance.

Check the power cable and the socket first, ideally by testing with another device. After plugging in, startup takes up to a minute until the PXL logo appears.

If the clock switches off at night on a schedule, a dark display at that time is intended - check under Day & Night in the app whether a night phase is currently active.

If the screen stays black for good although power is connected, please get in touch.

Wipe the glass with a dry or slightly damp soft cloth. No abrasives, no solvent-based cleaners, and never spray anything directly onto it.

Maximum power draw is 65 W. In everyday use it stays well below that, since draw depends on brightness and motif - a dark pixogram at low brightness needs a fraction of it.

The power supply is built in; you only connect the supplied power cable (IEC C7) to mains. Full specifications are in the safety information.

Yes, that is exactly what it was built for. Pixograms are written in C# or F#, and the simulator shows the result on your computer instantly, no device needed.

Getting started, examples and the community are on GitHub and Discord.